2 May 2019

Karamba Karacho 9a FA by Daniel Jung

Daniel Jung, who previously has done three 9a+', has just published some news about his FA of Karamba Karacho 9a Phantasialand on his Insta. It is a link up of an originally 9a and 8c which he both downgraded after the full line was done. (c) Hannes Kutza "Karamba Karacho is a limestone roof on a small local rock. Nearly 50 powerfull moves on pinches crimps and pockets. It was a hard project physically and mentally challenging. I needed a lot of patience, because most of the time the rock was wet. It took me 3 years to finish the first part โ€žKarambaโ€œ in 2011. I would need at least 6 crashpads, they had to be moved 3 times during my rest position. Sometime I only could train on a few moves because most of the holds were wet. I didn't want to break hold in the wet conditions. Some holds were ok to climb on wet conditions. A few weeks after I send โ€žKarambaโ€œ I was lucky to send โ€žKarachoโ€œ as well. โ€žKarachoโ€œ starts where โ€žKarambaโ€œ ends. To send the whole line was a big project for me since then. Sadly the rock was unclimbable wet most times I visited the crack during the last years. After the very dry summer the project became very interesting again last year. The rock was in perfect conditions. That made a big difference. During my sends 2011 the crux holds were humid all the time. With dry holds it felt much easier, so I was back into โ€žKarambaโ€œ very quick. But I had problems on the second part โ€žKarachoโ€œ. I wasn't able to reclimb it, it felt too hard. After lots of checking out I found a tricky new beta, with a hook I was able to do a long move and skipped the two worst crux holds. That was key so I finally could send โ€žKaramba Karachoโ€œ. The beautiful line that I had in my mind since such a long time. For me it's important to mention that I didn't use a hammer or any tools to โ€žclean/createโ€œ the line. I only cleaned it with a plastic brush. I didn't used any sika. The rock was very sharp, but it's a part of the game, I payed it with a bit of pain and blood. It was worth it: I did a real free climb. It is very sad that I have to mention this, usually I should be the standard. But sadly lots of modern routes, even some of the hardest have artificial holds (drilled pockets, molded sika...). Please remember what free climbing is about: climbing without any artificial help."
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