Dangerous belay illustration by UKC

The belay article by UK Climbing is nicely written but the illustration shows a dangerous belay method which should be removed. (c) Ray Eckermann 1. The dynamic belayer will not stop nicely just under the first bolt, as shown in the middle picture, but instead smash into the wall with a potential risk for letting go of the rope and the climber falling to the ground. 2. "The climber could easily fall onto the rope with painful consequences in the groin region!" (Quote from the article.) 3. "The belayer must anticipate the split-second before the rope goes tight and at that moment, lock off the belay device." (The contrary is shown on the picture.) The 8a article written the year before is actually more informative. The most important advice is that the inexperienced heavy belayers should bend their knees is critical situations in order to create a dynamic fall instead of being scared during the fall and instinctively, sit down during the fall making it super stiff.