19 May 2017
"Critical Mass" - Too many competitors in bouldering?
Eddie Fowke has presented some interesting thoughts on The Circuit Climbing in regards the problem with the increased number of participants in Bouldering WCs. Eddie says that this results in longer stay in isolation, the holds get greaser which is not fair and that the coaches and judges get tired. Three suggestions are put forward: maximum of 4-6 competitors from each country, introducing quarter finals, besides starting with five min brushing chalk break after every tenth climber.
1. In the last WC in Japan, 21 males participated and clearly this is too much but at the same time, among the 22 best, there were ten from Japan. It might be a good idea to say that a maximum of 10 athlete from one country is allowed during WCs and World Championship.
2. To introduce a quarter final is only good if this is only mandatory for the guys below a certain ranking. Bouldering should be about power and already now, the competition format is too much of an endurance challenge.
3. A five minute brushing break is of course nice and could be done after every 20 climbers. If there are 70 competitors, this would increase the qualification time by 15 minutes.
Another way is to reduce the number of participants from one country to three or even two if you are not within a certain ranking. This would, in fact, be more fair as it would allow that more of the highest competitors would be allowed to participate. Most probably the best way to handle the increasing number of participants is simply a combination of introducing quarter finals for the lowest ranked and to just allow three non-ranked climbers for each country.
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