14 March 2019

Coup de Grace 9a by Marco Zanone

Marco Zanone, who has done three 8c+' in 2019, has done his first 9a, Dave Graham's Coup de Grace in Ticino. (c) Matteo Pavana "I started trying this route back in 2016, I was recovering from a bad injury to my middle finger and I was definitely not strong enough for even climbing all the single move, but I knew that I was investing well my time because maybe in the future I would have been able to climb it. Then in Autumn 2017 I came back with my brother Andrea with a different mindset, the conditions were prime and even if I was attending a Film School in Milan with limited time for climbing, my shape was quite good. My progressions on the route was steady and after few days I was able to climbed the route from the second bolt to the top, but adding the 8A boulder problem at the start was another story. I was feeling very close, cause I fall few time at the end of the roof, but then the winter came and I had to give up. 2018 was a bummer, the route was always wet I've never been able to give a proper go from the bottom. This year the spring arrived earlier than ever and after climbing A Muerte in Spain last month I felt ready to come back there. On the second day of attempts I eventually found my self topping out this outstanding boulder of granite, marking my first 9a. My brother Andrea climbed this route back in autumn 2017; I was there belaying him on the send go and since then I've never stopped dreaming to feel all the emotions he felt during that day."
2 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads
30 December 2023

Jernej Kruder sends Martin Krpan (9a) sans knee pads

Jernej Kruder, who won the Boulder World Cup in 2018, has done Martin Krpan (9a) in Mišja Peč. “I would like to expose something here: I spent many tries on t…

76
Welcome to Vertical-Life Web
15 February 2024

Welcome to Vertical-Life Web

Six years after partnering with 8a.nu, we’re excited to announce the unification of the 8a.nu website and the Vertical-Life app into a single platform: Vertical…

43
Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
20 February 2024

Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)

William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…

34
Related
Action Directe 9a by Marco Zanone
31 October 2022

Action Directe 9a by Marco Zanone

Marco Zanone, who in 2022 previously has done three 9a's and his first 9a+, has sent Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura, in just six sessions. (c) Andrea Zanone…

1
Marco Zanone chalks up Condé de choc
9 September 2023

Marco Zanone chalks up Condé de choc

Marco Zanone has started September by doing Condé de choc (9a) in Entraygues. “This line climbs very well. Really cool and hard moves all the way to the top. St…

2
Marco Zanone ticks La Rambla (9a+)
28 February 2023

Marco Zanone ticks La Rambla (9a+)

Marco Zanone has done La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. It was bolted by Alex Huber, who stopped at the first 9a (8c+) anchor and then in 2003 Ramon Julian made the F…

0