10 February 2016

Could Sharma reach 9c with systematic training?

Finger boards, Systematic training, Running, Nutrition, Weight lifting and 10 weeks programs etc, run by a trainer with a calendar and a stop watch. Why is it that almost all the best rock climbers and boulderers in the world have not followed a specific training regime, and yet, the coaches and the media say that this is the trick? Now even Chris Sharma has said that he might try it. Could this take him to 9c and would he already have done a 9c+ if he had started as a teenager? Surely, there is no downside for Sharma to start experimenting and most people who achieved World Cup podiums, apart from Adam Ondra, have earned it through systematic training. Furthermore, many of us live in poor climate and rock conditions and for some personalities structured training is the only right thing to do. The best way, however, to become the #1 rock climber or boulderer in the world is to climb outside as much as possible, "training" technically, tactically, physically and always going "a muerte". It does not matter how much indoor physical capacity you have gained, following strict systematic schedules. Doing the hardest ascents comes down to having challenged yourself mentally sticking "impossible" moves millions of times and just keep going... This has been my training philosophy for 25 years and I am writing it again, to counter-balance all the coaches and media who claim the opposite. Go for an holistic approach guided by adrenaline, beauty, community and training knowledge, like the best guys out there and the ones having most fun. (c)
6 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ