25 May 2024

Coudert Camille sends Jack under the Box 8B+ (C)

Coudert Camille has made the first repeat of Killian Chabrier's Jack under the Box (8B+) in Fontainebleau, suggesting an upgrade to 8C. The 28-year-old sent Soudain seul (9A) in 2022 and frequently suggests upgrades and downgrades for the boulder problems he completes. (c) La Lili

Can you tell us more about this line and your experience?
I tried this boulder three years ago, at the time the boulder hadn’t been made yet and no one had tried it. It took me two sessions to find the beta and I quickly fell on the last movement. Ultimately I didn’t manage to do the boulder at this time then I put it aside and seriously started again recently.

What is your rationale for the upgrade?
Killian and I were not sure of the rating but as he did it very quickly we decided to announce it as 8B+. Finally, now that I have more experience in this grade (and Kilian too) it seemed obvious that the boulder was rather 8C. The boulder is divided into 2 sections. The first four moves are very physical in compression, worth 8B. Then it continues without rest on a movement in 8A+.

I talked about it with Kilian on a trip to Switzerland. We found that it was harder than all the 8B+ in Switzerland we had the chance to do and we found it even harder than some 8C's that we tried. Finally, when I went back there recently with Killian, we had it confirmed. We finally agreed that in Switzerland the boulder would have been graded hard 8C, which is why I decided to upgrade it to 8C.

What about the micro ventilator that can be seen in the Instagram video?
The ventilator just allows me to cool my hands a little because it’s hot these days. When I did the boulder it was 15 degrees, and I am a climber who sweats a lot on my hands. Without the ventilator with such temperatures it’s almost impossible for me. I therefore prefer to use it rather than wait six months for the best conditions.
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