Monday, 28 July

A few months back our editor fell and reported that his lower carabiner broke in the fall. He was 10cm from smashing his head into the rocky ground. After careful investigation it became clear that he had clipped the bolt with the lower end of the carabiner and that it was this that broke, which is much more common. At first there was a suspicion of a "bad" carabiner but then it was discovered that the carabiner had got stuck in the bolt between the screw and the bolthole (see picture for an extreme case). If this happens the carabiner only holds for about ONE THIRD of the force (3.5KN instead of 10KN). A 4m fall(2m above the last clip) at 15 meters gives a fall factor of about 0.27 and a force of 5KN, which will cause the carabiner to break if it is stuck like shown here. In addition to the manufacturer testing, an 8a associate has tested this in his lab and the above is true for most type of carabiners, and not just the brand used by our editor. Take care out there!

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Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …