30 September 2020
Conquerer 8A+ FA by Jana Vincourkovรก
Jana Vincourkovรก has flashed Jemark 7C+ and done the FA of Conquerer 8A+ in Sklapsko which is a sit start to an 8A she put up this spring. Only this year, the 23-year-old has made five different 8A to 8B FA's.
"My big advantage is my small fingers so I can fit into small cracks and crimps. That is why I feel very comfortable in these boulder problems. That's why I was able to do it first go that day after three months not being there. In the same day I also flashed a 7C+ boulder which was in the roof and the difficulty wasn't about small holds. My flash tries are always one of the best tries even in the hardest boulders. It's maybe connected with the motivation to do it first try, as well as I begun my climbing era as a competition climber where you have just one go and that's it. Usually when I do not send in couple tries it takes me several days to finish it."
"My big advantage is my small fingers so I can fit into small cracks and crimps. That is why I feel very comfortable in these boulder problems. That's why I was able to do it first go that day after three months not being there. In the same day I also flashed a 7C+ boulder which was in the roof and the difficulty wasn't about small holds. My flash tries are always one of the best tries even in the hardest boulders. It's maybe connected with the motivation to do it first try, as well as I begun my climbing era as a competition climber where you have just one go and that's it. Usually when I do not send in couple tries it takes me several days to finish it."
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