Connor Herson FA’s Drifter’s Escape (9a+)

Connor Herson has made the first ascent of Drifter’s Escape (9a+) in Squamish, which is the fifth pitch of an old aid route, including two initial bolts protecting easier terrain from a potential death fall. The 20 meter crack was protected mainly with cams 0.2 or smaller and Connor needed around 20 sessions over two seasons to take it down. The majority of climbing is an 8a crack with follows and finishes with 8A boulder cruxes. There are previous four trad routes considered 9a; Bon Voyage, Tribe, Crown Royale and The best things in life are free (also mixed with two bolts).

”The bolts were already there when I started trying the pitch, and I’m not one to chop bolts or take unnecessary risks—the idea of skipping or removing them didn’t even cross my mind. I don’t want to make a pedantic argument of what constitutes “trad.” I’m not claiming a “trad” ascent, and the grade is just a proposal. I know a lot of the media will focus on trying to compare this with other ascents in terms of difficulty, style, and the like. To me, it was just a very fun project up an incredible piece of rock. It was a privilege to climb on it.”

Herson made his first 8a headline in 2018 when he did an 8c+, 2nd go at age 14. In the same year, he repeated The Nose 8b+ MP; and was #11 in the Youth World Championship. (c) Christian Adam for Black Diamond

How was it behind the lins seeing Connor fighting hard up there?
Stressful most of the time haha. A few big whips at the last crux, but you could really fall at any point. The last one is the biggest, you place a bomber .4 and have to do the crux then a non trivial mantel. If you blew it on the mantel it would be more then a 12 meter whip. He did it on the last day before a big heat wave came in and you could tell he wasn’t going to fall.

How many sessions did it take until you begun leading it, how safe is it and what about the gear cleaning logistics?
It’s quite safe even though the gear is very small! I didn’t keep very careful track of the number of sessions, but I think it was about eight or so sessions of just to toproping before I started leading. It was really fun to try it on lead high up! We put a static line on the route so I could work it on toprope solo, and in between attempts I could rappel the line and clean all my gear.

When it comes to trad routes Connor has sent several 8c+’ including Empath which originally was given 9a+. In 2022, he started college and commented.

”I think I am just as excited about studying as I am about climbing. Even though I have some very generous and supportive sponsors, I think I’d love to try to keep that balance between academics and climbing. To clarify, although I’m starting college in a week, I don’t intend to stop climbing at all. I might be climbing less frequently, but I’ll still be finding projects, pushing myself, and - most importantly- having fun.”