Compressions sleeves could explain "market" grades


29 November 2014

If it turns out to be true that the Vertic Sleeves will increase the climbers blood circulation, as the compression helps the veins to get rid of the old used blood faster, we just might have to start down grading the endurance test-pieces. The grading scale tries to measure and compare different styles of climbing and if it turns out that everyone can climb one grade harder on just long overhanging routes by bying a pair, all these routes must be down graded. Stefano Ghisolfi is using the compression sleeves in Red River Gorge and he has since marked all route as "Soft". "They are not magic, you cannot climb a grade harder if you wear them, but they can help. The positive thing is that you can feel the forearm, like Kinesiotape, when you are climbing, and they are very good in cold days. (c) Andrea Cossu Probably, the sleeves has just a minor effect, a very long way from one grade difference, but if it turns out that they have any positive impact at all, some of softest routes need to be down graded. Hopefully, this theoretical example can also help climbers to understand how the grades works in practice. Climbers are consumers of grades and we set them in a similar way as the market sets the price based on supply and demand. 8a will test the sleeves and make a review.

5  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date A Reply A


Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

8 August 2022

Change 9b+ by Seb Bouin - updated

Sebastien Bouin reports on Insta that he has done Change (9b+) in Flatanger. (c) Marco Müller Adam Ondra established the 55m route in 2012 as the first 9b+ in…


4 August 2022

Very hard boulders in ECH - Graz

The European Youth Championship in Bouldering started today in Graz. Unfortunately, the boulders were very hard and both climbers and coaches were upset. The Norweigian Head Coach, Reino "Nicki" Horak said that for the girls, it was the worst and hardest setting he has ever seen. "It was much worse …

1 August 2022

Ratstaman Vibrations 9b FA by Alex Megos

Alex Megos, who was #3 in Briancon, reports on Insta that he has made the FA of Ratstaman Vibrations 9b in Céüse. The steep, 35m line was bolted by Chris Sharma some ten years ago and has been tried by many top climbers. Last year, Alex tried it but the actual process started three weeks ago after t…