8 December 2015

Circus net instead of a rope to make an 8a+ FA

Kinloch Mason Earle, one of the best crack climbers in the world, has done the FA of Woo goes to circus camp 8A+ in a "secret crag" in Moab. Instead of using a rope for protection, he constructed a net by weaving about 2 kilometers of rope and cord. It took some four days. "Its folded up in my attic now. I'll keep my eye out for more roof cracks to rig it under! I am obviously not the first person to try this, but this fall the idea got in my head. I realized that a long roof crack could be climbed with a net under you. I found a nice roof crack out in the desert- it's about 50 feet long and looked like the perfect spot for a net. It took me and a few friends 4 days to weave the net. 5,300 feet of cord! it took another full day to rig the net under the crack, it was some complicated rigging- mostly on trad gear. The crack turned out to be pretty tricky, probably 8a+. It was hard to project- once you fall, you have to start from the beginning. no hangdogging! The falls were scary at first, but once we realized it worked, it was like falling into a cloud. very comfortable"
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