Chris Frick, 57, FA's Chaîne de Markov (8b+)

Chris Frick, who did his first 8b+ in 1992, has done the first ascent of Chaîne de Markov (8b+) in Gorges de Court. In total, the 57-year-old has done almost 500 first ascents. "Incredible roof with tufas and tufa-blobs on immaculate limestone. Quasi a taste of Spanish-style 3D power climbing in the Swiss Jura. It's a gem, completely natural! One hold less an it'd be impossible. A gift to discover this climb, bolting and sending! Found the line in 2014, realized it's beauty but thought it would be 8c+ or beyond and therefore left it. Came back in 2023, had some ideas how to solve the moves. In 2024 I've struggled with the two cruxes but found the beta. This year everything is different. Now, at 57 I'm somehow in an amazing shape power- and weightwise. I've put in a lot of work to get there. The send was still challenging, but I'm hesitating to give more than 8b+ (maybe slash c?). Time will tell. A heartfelt thank you for the amazing support by Tina, Vero, Marianne, Sabrina, Julo, Gaspard, Gregoire, Sven and Matias. You guys rock!" (c) Veronika Sossau

How can you explain the amazing shape power?
I am absolutely aware that it is not given to still have this energy and drive at my age. But it doesn't come naturally, it's the result of hard work. After 43 years, climbing is in my DNA - so it's intrinsic motivation. For me, there is no question of whether I want to keep climbing - especially at my personal limit - or not. Every day that I do something well in climbing is like a gift. And then the willingness to invest in climbing - and ultimately in yourself - comes naturally. I would hate to stand still and stop developing. So it remains exciting to see what I can (still!) continue to change. Of course, it takes a lot of effort to define goals and then work on yourself. But sometimes I wonder why some people of the same age (50 to 60) give up, even though they are not permanently injured or suffer from other ailments. I mean, most of us over 50 have a hard job in addition to climbing - I work four days a week myself. But it also gets easier, for example for those with families, when the children have grown up and become independent. As long as the biological limitation due to advanced age has not yet set in, I see no reason to give up. I’m pretty sure it’s just a question of mental state. If that’s the case for some of you, it might help to ask yourself: Why do I THINK I can't do it anymore?

For my personal climbing, I proceed as follows: I usually set myself a climbing goal that is actually (almost) too difficult. These are routes outside on rock. I refer to these mega-projects as my ‘lighthouses’, which I can use as a guide and ask myself questions such as: what do I need, how should I proceed, what circumstances must be given, etc.? Then I actually know how to go on. It's not simply a question of training harder now. I don't even think that works like that. First of all, there are clear basic requirements to be met, especially to stay injury-free over 55+ (and not just at this age!)! Sufficient sleep, stress reduction and good nutrition are the basis. By good nutrition, I mean a vegan diet - although I know that this may cause controversial debates. But my own experience is valid. Here, too, I choose what I eat carefully in order to get enough proteins and other essential nutrients. Since switching to vegan ten years ago, I have been completely free of inflammations and have more power than I did as a young man who first ate meat and later went vegetarian. Another aspect is time management. It wasn't easy to manage everything so that I could create a good training environment and only train at times of the day when I’m awake and present. I have also learned to listen to my body. I've now even got to the point where, if I start a training session and the first few moves feel miserable, I cancel it and postpone it for a day or two. I no longer train according to training plans, but have over the decades learned what I need. This can even still be technical training. I invest a lot in stretching every day. Agility is a key word here.

It may sound paradoxical, but the now climbed power roof ‘Chaîne de Markov’ - at least 8b+ and thus the second in the grade this year - is not the ‘lighthouse’ project I spoke of earlier. This is just waiting for the cooler conditions in fall. It's a long-term project and the most difficult piece of rock I've ever tackled and that I find it extremely interesting. Everything before is just the necessary round to this one goal. And if it doesn't work out - because of the often not ideal conditions or I don't get strong enough - then it was the benchmark that made all the other routes possible. So I know for myself that it's worth investing. I get so much in return. And these are fantastic experiences that I can draw on for the rest of my life. I hope this sounds inspiring to some of you older girls and boys who are still hesitant. Let's go! Climbing at 55+ at the personal limit is so interesting and still possible!