12 March 2021
Chiroptera 9a+ by Michal Mikuลกรญnec
Michal Mikuลกรญnec skips 9a by doing the FA of Chiroptera 9a+ bolted by Milan Benian in the late '90s. "This short but intense route starts with 10 moves around 8b, followed by a boulder problem with 5 monos in a row. As I'm not very strong in pockets, I spent almost 20 sessions and 50 tries to make it."
Adam Ondra tried it twice in 2019, see this video. The second time it was harder as Michael had glued back a broken hold. "I broke a big part of mono and then I modelled it back. Now it's slightly smaller, so it's doable only with a thin middle finger or with the ring finger(as me)."
Could you please say something about your climbing background and how you train?
I started climbing at age 8. I climbed 8c being 16-years-old and then I started training. Not much, maybe three times per week. Now, I train every day, mostly on spray wall, hang board and core exercises. Sometimes, I do weight training, some weighted pull-ups and deadlifts.
Adam Ondra tried it twice in 2019, see this video. The second time it was harder as Michael had glued back a broken hold. "I broke a big part of mono and then I modelled it back. Now it's slightly smaller, so it's doable only with a thin middle finger or with the ring finger(as me)."
Could you please say something about your climbing background and how you train?
I started climbing at age 8. I climbed 8c being 16-years-old and then I started training. Not much, maybe three times per week. Now, I train every day, mostly on spray wall, hang board and core exercises. Sometimes, I do weight training, some weighted pull-ups and deadlifts.
1 comment
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
23 March 2026
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
Favorites
8 June 2026
Janja Garnbret does Bibliographie (9b+)
Janja Garnbret has added another milestone to her remarkable climbing career by becoming the first woman to climb Bibliographie (9b+) in Cรฉรผse, one of the hardeโฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ