Chikane 9b by Loic Zehani
19 April 2022

"Chikane is a 30 moves route that can be divided into three parts with no rest. The first part is a ten moves 8b, followed by a magnificent boulder section, very varied with crimps, verticals and a heel hook. This sequence of ten moves must be around an 8A+ boulder. Then comes the last section with two dynamics around 7C+/8A boulder. The whole route is very hard and resistant. It took me about fifteen sessions over two months. I propose 9b while waiting for future repeaters. I'll post a video this week. Note that there are two projects left around 9b+."
MOST COMMENTED
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Loic Zehani, who previously did three 8c's, has done the first repeat of his father's route, Crépuscule in Orgon, giving it a personal grade of 8c+. Cristophe…
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8c+ again by Loic Zehani (13) and his father Cristophe (41)
Loic Zehani has done Mavericks, which is his second 8c+ in Orgon in last two weeks. Video. His father Christophe (41) did the FA last weekend. - The first part is a burly 8b+ bolted by Pierre Legrand and Thierry Legallée twenty years ago and after the rest you join an route bolted last spring by O…
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9a FA by Loic Zehani (14)
Loic Zehani has done the FA of Carnaval 9a in Cevennes. The route, which is a link up of two 8b+'s, took him seven sessions. The 14-year-old has done one 9a previously and gave it a personal grade of 8c+. "The route is an amazing big overhang (20 meters with 12 meters of overhang). The first pitch…
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Janja wins again and saves the show
Janja Garnbret, who has not competed since she won the Boulder WC in Meiringen in April, won in Innsbruck showing her superiority. Reaching hold 27, she rested …