1 February 2019
Check Speed Potential by first 4-5 moves
We have previously said that standing longjump is a good measurement to check the Speed climbing potential. The Norwegian coach Reino Horak has mentioned that 2.80 cm could be an indication if you could go sub 7 seconds.
Another method to value your potential is to just focus on the first five moves (4 using the Narasaki skip) and measure your time. The 5.60 world record time had a split time of some 1.5 sec. Narasaki reaches his fourth move after some 1.8 sec when he does sub 7 seconds.
So instead of training 20 sessions to check the natural talent for the full 15 meter Speed climbing having a problem with the sequence etc, it might be better to just spend five sessions focusing on the first five moves. If you can not get close to 2.0 seconds, it might be very hard to get below eight seconds.
However, it should be mentioned that the best female, who have done 7.32 seconds, reach move five after some 2.3 seconds. In other words, they loose much more time in the start in comparison of the finish. One explanation for this is that it is better to be taller and more explosive in the start compared with the finish.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


