30 January 2016
Charles Albert interview
Fanatic Climbing has made an interview with Charles Albert, who did an 8C yesterday, giving it a personal grade of 8B+. The interesting fact is that the 18-year-old seldom trains indoor and the only training he does beside Bouldering is stretching. (c) Neil Hart
"Yesterday I was climbing alone without pads and luckily I met Kevin Thibaut and Mounir (strong but low profile Font locals) who were trying it. I joined them and I managed to send it on my first real session trying the left version. Regarding the grade, I would say for me itยs not harder than ยGecko assisย, the 8B+ I did barefoot last yearย
I also tried the sit start of ยAlchimisteย which adds an easy but beautiful move but doesnยt change the difficulty. I have not done the sit-start version but will come back and try sending the whole thing because it makes the line even more beautiful !"
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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