Celine Mehouas ticks Mind Control (8c)

Celine Mehouas, who last autumn did her first 8c, has redpointed Mind Control (8c) in Oliana. (c) Pinopictures

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The Oliana cliff is a personal favorite of mine because I love the long and physical style of the routes there. Having done Fish Eye last year, this time I really want to try Mind Control! This beautiful route is a classic of the cliff, and after visiting it, you quickly understand why there’s always a queue at the base.

It takes me two days to get into the rhythm, then I start falling at the top crux because I’m trying a different method than other climbers. Well, after two falls at this move, I decide to do it like everyone else, and I must admit—it’s easier. On the last day before the rain, the conditions are wet and cold. It’s not really what I prefer, but the motivation is stronger.

Second attempt of the day, after falling at the same spot again. I tell myself this is the last try—I need to shorten the suffering of Caroline Minvielle, who is kindly belaying me despite the cold.

After a little scare near the bottom, where it was borderline, I reach the final crux. I’m feeling good, and it seems possible. I don’t really know how, because this move has always felt so random. I wait, refocus, and grip the holds tighter all the way to the top. The energy from the attempt makes me feel super solid, and I clip the anchor just as the first drops of rain hit my face. Perfect timing! The next day, the rain made the end of the route impossible. 😉