15 November 2018

"Caving" anchors should not be placed on routes

Based on an incident where the webbing of a quickdraw was cut after six sideway falls, the normal hanger was replaced with a Raumer "caving" anchor, see picture. The idea was to move out the quick draw so that the webbing should have less contact with the sharp granite just below the hanger. Although such hanger can be used in a top anchor, creating less rope drag as the quick draw or the screw carabiner get perpendicular, this hanger is not designed for dynamic load. Further more, it is important that the load stays downwards. The "caving" hanger could put the quick draw in a bad position which can lead to ruptures, i.e. carabiner breakage. Emanuele Pellizzari, who is selling Kinobi bolts etc since 15 years, explains the risk which also Raumer, the manufacture of the bolt, have confirmed. "That hanger is not meant for climbing falls. It is meant for static load with a clear direction of force. In fact it keeps the biner perpendicular to the route, like in belays/rappels. It should be removed and replaced with a regular hanger. This is a typical case of mis-use by the equipper."​ What is your best advice if the local club do not want to chop the bolt and drill a new hole? What about replacing the having hanger with an anchor with two rings?
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