26 January 2013

Campus and Dead Hang the quickest way to improve

The most productive way for fast progress is to start your training session with 20 minutes of finger training on a campus board. After the warming up, spend 10 minutes doing some campus moves, i.e. no feet, on flat rungs. This will increase and recruit your muscle fibers and you will get stronger directly. Then spend 10 minutes hanging on a small rail for 10 seconds every minute. If you feel you get tired, increase the rest to two minutes. If you have never done it, you will climb one grade harder within 1-2 months but make sure to not push yourself to hard and you should alternate the holds. During your climbing make sure you do not get to pumped. If so, climb half the route twice instead of to the top.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
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