
24 March 2022
Camille Coudert projecting a new 9A(?) in Font
Camille Coudert did Soudain Seul 9A in Fontainebleau after 80+ sessions. Now he has started working on a sit start to Imothep, a classic 8A in Font, which he says is probably just as hard. This Frenchman works half time as a route setter and last year he estimates that he spent 100 days bouldering in Font.
Could you please say something about your new project?
The sit can be broken down into two sections. First two moves, which are very intense and worth about 8B, then section of about 5/6 moves before reaching the standing start. This section is worth about 8B+/C. All the movements are very hard compression movements.
How many sessions have you tried it and have you done all moves?
For the moment I have only had three small sessions in the boulder. I managed to link the middle part in two sections and I have succeeded in all the movements. But I am afraid itโs already too hot to do more this season.
Have you done any specific training yet?
I havenโt started training specifically yet, but it will happen soon. My trainer Guillaume Levernier and I will work on my training for this boulder soon.
What are your plans this spring and summer?
As long as the weather is spring-like I plan to try some easier (8C) boulders like โLe pied ร coulisseโ (which Iโm close to do) and โLe pilier du dessert sitโ. And when it gets really hot, I plan to train for the next winter.
What type of training are we talking about?
Mainly physical training in the gym and specific to this boulder. I donโt know yet what exercise to do, but it will surely be oriented on the power of the upper body.
Could you please say something about your new project?
The sit can be broken down into two sections. First two moves, which are very intense and worth about 8B, then section of about 5/6 moves before reaching the standing start. This section is worth about 8B+/C. All the movements are very hard compression movements.
How many sessions have you tried it and have you done all moves?
For the moment I have only had three small sessions in the boulder. I managed to link the middle part in two sections and I have succeeded in all the movements. But I am afraid itโs already too hot to do more this season.
Have you done any specific training yet?
I havenโt started training specifically yet, but it will happen soon. My trainer Guillaume Levernier and I will work on my training for this boulder soon.
What are your plans this spring and summer?
As long as the weather is spring-like I plan to try some easier (8C) boulders like โLe pied ร coulisseโ (which Iโm close to do) and โLe pilier du dessert sitโ. And when it gets really hot, I plan to train for the next winter.
What type of training are we talking about?
Mainly physical training in the gym and specific to this boulder. I donโt know yet what exercise to do, but it will surely be oriented on the power of the upper body.
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Camille Coudert sent Soudain seul (9A) in Fontainebleau, one month ago, after 80+ sessions during two years. So did you enjoy some nice rest days once you had sent it and what have you been up to the last month?I went climbing the next day with friends. I have tried some less hard 8C boulders that Iโฆ
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Climber of 2022 - Draft
8a has published the โClimber of the Yearโ list for the past 20 years. We base it upon the best information and reporting available, and we give extra credit to climbers performing in both competitions and on the rock. We also take FAs, trad, multi-pitches, and DWS into consideration. Please feel frโฆ
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