Bouldering understandable, fair, anticlimax, cheating etc

EDITORIAL

Thursday, 9 May

8a was the only media present during the IFSC Olympic meeting with IOC in Lausanne last month. Here are improvements in regards the Bouldering format and rules suggested by me. Understandable 1. Digital understandable scoring live updated on the TV-screen so even the non climbers can follow who is in the lead and what is needed to advance. 2. Take out the letters T and z and count and present only points 34 points instead of 3T4z. Ties will be separated by number of tries as already done. ”Welcome to the Bouldering Final. You get 1 point for controlling the zone and another 10 for topping out. The best possible score is 44 points.” Anticlimax/Fairness/Cheating 1. How to judge ”control” matching the top but swinging out at 3.59 sec? The solution is to say you just need to touch the top before 4 minutes. 2. Appeals must be filed within 10 min and presented on the live screen. 3. How to deal with spectators screaming beta? 4. How to deal with boulderers looking at each other in semi? 5. The conditions deteriorates and with 8 finalists the disadvantage starting first increases. Better brushing after 4 two climbers including standing on stairs with blowing equipment. Change to LED-spotlight so the temperature do not rise. Format changes after 2020 – This could be tested on Youth a. Add one more zone = More fair and more excitement b. Increase to 8 finalists/4 boulders = More countries and more action c. Save 30 – 40 min: Rotate on 2 first boulders and only Top-6 finish d. Break before last boulder = Commercial/Coffe break needed in 90 min show e. Rotate starting order before last boulder = More fair and increased excitement

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