Bouldering comments and analysis


Tuesday, 3 August

Sensational bouldering by Mickael Mawem getting three tops in four tries and all four zones in five tries. In 2021, his best bouldering WC results, out of four, was #10. On the other hand, he was #4 in the World Championship in 2018 and in 2019, he won the Euro Championship, so he is used to delivering when it really counts.

Jakob Schubert was #18 coming into the third boulder having just made two zones in 12 attempts. Then with just 2.5 minutes left on the clock, he pulls it together and we get the biggest (relief) scream of the night, after Mawem going full-on after each top.

In general, it must be said that the boulders were too hard as the 20 Olympians did only manage to get 20 tops altogether. I have hard times thinking the non-climbers audience appreciated this. However, all four boulders were topped out but only three athletes manage to make the zone on the second boulder. Furthermore, continuing on the positive side, there were no ties.

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Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …