5 November 2014

Bouldering + Running = Long endurance onsights

Anna Gatta is the perfect example of that you can perform excellent on long endurance onsights by skipping climbing endurance training and instead go bouldering and running. Three years ago, the 40+ year old onsighted Priapos 7c (b+) in Kalymnos and since than she increased her mountain running focus, including running 650 km over 16 days in Himalaya last year. We are talking running up and down in valleys up to 5 000 m altitude. Yesterday, Anna onsighted a 7b, 7b+ and the 38 m Laurentย… y'a quelque'un 7c in Kalymnos. Her preparation has been just three weeks of bouldering in Bishop and prior to that she has mainly been bouldering indoors 1-2 times a week beside a lot of running. The last six months she has mainly bouldered like 1-2 times a week. The reason for why running sometimes can be the best preparation is that to do up to 1 h of very steep climbing with several no hands rests measure both your climbing skill but also your heart blood circulation capacity. If you not easily can run 10 km below 50 minutes, it does not matter how super strong you are. More info and pictures from Himalaya and here is a greatvideo from the adventure. The picture is from Patagonia earlier this year. "Sure I am 40+ but I feel in better shape than ever and very motivated to start climbing again."
11 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Related
Anna Gatta has helped us with an interview with Gerhard Richter (53). Although he has been climbing for 32 years he aims for a 8c personal best in 2012. "I simply follow the general trend of the climbing community: the average level is increasing continously. It comes from the fact that there are โ€ฆ
Anna Gatta nin yaptigi Gerhard Richter (53)ile roportaji. 32 yildir tirmaniyor olmasina ragmen en iyi derecesi olacak olan 8c zorlugunu 2012 yilinda tirmanmayi amacliyor. "Basitce tirmanis camiasinda ki genel trendleri takip ediyorum.Ortalama dereceler durmadan artiyor.Daha cok rota, indoor aktivitโ€ฆ
Anna Gatta nam je pomagala in naredila interviju z Gerhardu Richterju (53). ฤŒeprav pleza ยže 32 let, letos cilja na svoj prvi 8c. "Preprosto sledim plezalnemu trendu plezalske skupnosti: Povpreฤna sposobnost se konstantno poveฤuje. To je predvsem zaradi tega ker imamo danes veliko veฤ plezaliยšฤ in โ€ฆ