Bokassa's Fridge sit 8C/+ by Florian Wientjes

Wednesday, 17 March

Florian Wientjes, who previously has done four 8B+', has done the FA of Bokassa's Fridge sit 8C/+ in Kochel. Originally the line is an 8c bolted route which starts with an 8A+ boulder. Later a low 8C start has been added to the elimination problem

"Due to the pandemic I searched for a project close to home for the winter months. So I decided to spent my time at my closest crag: Kochel. I started with the classic Antonator (8B) which took me 6 sessions. The boulder is basically the first part of Bokassa´s with one exception: you‘re not allowed to use the side wall. That makes the first part harder and more complex. After I did Antonator, I started trying `Bokassa´s Fridge Assassin - Monkey and Man‘ (8C) first ascended by Toni Lamprecht way back in 2009.

For me, Toni’s original start is a bit random so I went straight for the sit start. There are only 5 more moves, which on their own are pretty steady, but it makes an already pumpy problem even pumpier. There is no real crux in the 25 moves but the persistent compression climbing makes it into a real power endurance redpoint monster! I fell 3 times really close to the top due to pumped forearms, which turned the whole thing into a lot more of a mental game than I wanted.

Primarily, I chose this boulder as a challenge for myself, to see how I could handle my weaknesses, since normally I prefer short and basic power problems as opposed to power endurance on max span compression with lots of technical footwork! To help me get up it, I devised a time-efficient training routine, training mostly during the night so as to be able to juggle my job, the training, and the days I spent trying the project. I had access to a gym where I did some Campus training and climbing on my home wall. All in all, it took me 5 sessions to complete the original Bokassa‘s and 4 more sessions for the sit. I’m really happy now that all the energy I invested paid off and I’m already psyched for what‘s next."

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