28 January 2013

Body power is not important to train

Which strengths separates the 9a guy from the 8a and 7a climber? Having been a trainer for 20 years I would say that most climber would immediately improve 2-3 grades if they had the the commitment and fearlessness of a 9a climber. Unfortunately this skill is very hard to improve unless you are a teenager. All other skills in climbing are much easier to improve but which skills are less important and thus is basically a waste of time to train, if you can just spend five hours every week? Body Power excercises makes you look nice at the beach but it will not make the difference doing the first 7b. There are several 7a climbers who have more body strength than an 8a climber. Other training you could avoid is running and for males also arm power if you just have five hours per week to spend. The weakest link in climbing for intermediate climbers is always the finger strength. If you get stronger you automatically get better endurance. Do not think that there are short cuts to gain in the gym!
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