28 January 2013
Body power is not important to train
Which strengths separates the 9a guy from the 8a and 7a climber? Having been a trainer for 20 years I would say that most climber would immediately improve 2-3 grades if they had the the commitment and fearlessness of a 9a climber. Unfortunately this skill is very hard to improve unless you are a teenager.
All other skills in climbing are much easier to improve but which skills are less important and thus is basically a waste of time to train, if you can just spend five hours every week?
Body Power excercises makes you look nice at the beach but it will not make the difference doing the first 7b. There are several 7a climbers who have more body strength than an 8a climber. Other training you could avoid is running and for males also arm power if you just have five hours per week to spend.
The weakest link in climbing for intermediate climbers is always the finger strength. If you get stronger you automatically get better endurance. Do not think that there are short cuts to gain in the gym!
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


