
19 August 2019
Big technical incident decided one Olympic spot?
Rishat Kaibullin, who set a personal best being #7 in Speed last week, slipped as he went for the buzzer and hit the wall like 30 cm below the electronic device which anyhow recorded 6.075. The Kazakhstan understood he failed so he went up again and hit it like one second later.
It was decided that this was a technical incident and five minutes later he run again and set a personal best at 5.863. Then the big pressure was on the Speed World Champion Ludovico Fossali, who executed but was 0.026 slower.
It should be mentioned that also during the standard Speed event, Rishat was super lucky as he was #7 at 7.013 just because his opponent, Bassa Mawem the World Cup leader, did fall. At the same time, Fossali was even more lucky becomming the World Champion as in all his four runs, his opponents did either fall or make a false start.
The twist of the whole story is that even if Rishat, #34 ranked in the Speed World Cup, is dead last in both Boulder and Lead he will most likely get an Olympic ticket as he luckily won Speed. On the other hand, being #23 as a personal best in a Bouldering WC and #41 last week, he is possibly the most overall talented climber among the best Speed climbers.
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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