24 October 2020
Beyond integral 9b/+ FA by Seb Bouin
Seb Bouin, who has done more than 50 routes 9a and harder, has done the FA of Beyond integral 9b/+. (c) Raphael Fourau
โThis 50 meters route is made of two parts: a first 9a+ followed by an 8A+ boulder problem. The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, drop knees, hills, tufas, crimps,โฆ all the ingredients for a perfect project. There is a good rest between both parts. About the grade, itโs hard to have a clear mind and to pronounce myself. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. I think this route is on the same range than โMoveโ or โLa rage dโAdamโ. Thatโs why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece." Source Fanatic Climbing.
โThis 50 meters route is made of two parts: a first 9a+ followed by an 8A+ boulder problem. The moves are amazing and spectacular, jumps, drop knees, hills, tufas, crimps,โฆ all the ingredients for a perfect project. There is a good rest between both parts. About the grade, itโs hard to have a clear mind and to pronounce myself. I spent a lot of time to find the sequences. I think this route is on the same range than โMoveโ or โLa rage dโAdamโ. Thatโs why I propose 9b/+. Waiting for some climbers to try this piece." Source Fanatic Climbing.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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