13 January 2014

Bernd Zangerl great journey for Shantaram 8C at least

Bernd Zangerl gives us the great story behind his "biggest project", Shantaram meaning that we al least are talking hard 8C. The name Shantaram stems from Indian mythology, shanta meaning peace, and rama god of rest. "Whatever Shantaram will be in future - this line took everything I have got - the most intense climb ever. Its a pretty long boulder on a huge (3 story building) boulder and one of the most beautiful climbs in the world.....thats for sure:-) I checked out the sequence in 2011! To link that many hard moves went beyond my imagination and seemed utopian. The continuous difficulty represented a new level of strain to me...and i had no idea how to climb these 23 moves without a rest. Spring 2012 I was determined to give it a try. After my first ascent of the 24 hold problem “Normopath” (8B+) and a repeat of Fred Nicole’s “Ragtime”, both power endurance climbs near Lake Wallensee in Switzerland, I traveled to Norway highly motivated. Five weeks later I had to leave again, with an inflamed elbow and eight missing moves to the jug. 2013: After five weeks of hard work the gods had mercy: I linked the 23 moves that had captured my imagination for so many years. I reached the final jug of “Shantaram”, as in trance staggered up the remaining 10 meters to the top and let my gaze wander over the horizon. Regardless of the number which will be related to “Shantaram” in the future, the first ascent on June 11, 2013 as well as the journey to accomplish it are among the most intense of my climbing life, maybe even my highlight.
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