
23 May 2024
Ben Cossey FA's Arapiles' hardest line
Ben Cossey, who made his first 8a news headline in 2001, reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of Light Weight Baby (8c+), which makes it the hardest route in Arapiles. The 40-year-old projected it for a dozen sessions spread over four trips.
Can you tell us more about the history of the route and your ascent?
The route was first bolted by Sean Myles in about 1992. He and Jerry Moffatt had come out, from what I know, they had a few cracks but generally got arse slammed. The route looks featured and easier than it actually is. Garth Miller and Nick Sutter, Zac Vertrees, Fred Nicole have also had a tickle over the years. Some more than others.
It sits in an awesome spot at Arapilies with a really great view of the plains below. You can also see Punks In The Gym from the base so thatโs extra spacial. Obviously, Arapiles is sacred land and Wolfgang [Gullich] made it even more so. So being able to see his classic line from this new route is super radical. Iโm not sure if you guys get it in Europe, but the wind at Arapilies, the way it whistles around the cliff crevices make a sound like itโs whispering โWolfgangโ, which is pretty amazing really.
Anyway, the route is stellar. I live in Blackheath NSW, so itโs a long drive to Arapailes. Itโs like having a project in El Chorro but living in Vladivostok. So from a logistical PPOV itโs an undertaking. The route also bakes like a turkey in the sun all day so you only get a small window towards the end of the day to try it, which makes it more annoying to get good conditions. But you get that on the big jobs, and weโre not playing for sheep stations, so I just had to get on with it, if you know what I mean. Itโs seriously the best route! Great rock and super meaty bouldery moves, great line, great area, great history - Iโm really pleased toโve done it finally. I first saw it when I was 15 years old and itโs sat there, indifferent ever since, like itโs been doing since the dawn of time, waiting to be done. Now it is!
Can you tell us more about the history of the route and your ascent?
The route was first bolted by Sean Myles in about 1992. He and Jerry Moffatt had come out, from what I know, they had a few cracks but generally got arse slammed. The route looks featured and easier than it actually is. Garth Miller and Nick Sutter, Zac Vertrees, Fred Nicole have also had a tickle over the years. Some more than others.
It sits in an awesome spot at Arapilies with a really great view of the plains below. You can also see Punks In The Gym from the base so thatโs extra spacial. Obviously, Arapiles is sacred land and Wolfgang [Gullich] made it even more so. So being able to see his classic line from this new route is super radical. Iโm not sure if you guys get it in Europe, but the wind at Arapilies, the way it whistles around the cliff crevices make a sound like itโs whispering โWolfgangโ, which is pretty amazing really.
Anyway, the route is stellar. I live in Blackheath NSW, so itโs a long drive to Arapailes. Itโs like having a project in El Chorro but living in Vladivostok. So from a logistical PPOV itโs an undertaking. The route also bakes like a turkey in the sun all day so you only get a small window towards the end of the day to try it, which makes it more annoying to get good conditions. But you get that on the big jobs, and weโre not playing for sheep stations, so I just had to get on with it, if you know what I mean. Itโs seriously the best route! Great rock and super meaty bouldery moves, great line, great area, great history - Iโm really pleased toโve done it finally. I first saw it when I was 15 years old and itโs sat there, indifferent ever since, like itโs been doing since the dawn of time, waiting to be done. Now it is!
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
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Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


