3 July 2023

Becket Hsin, 13, does his fourth and fifth 8B

Beckett Hsin has done Carnage (8B) in Guanella Pass and Evil Backwards (8B) in Mt Evans. In the 8a junior ranking game, the 13-year-old is #2.

His brother and coach, Samuel, who just did his first 8B+, Warrior up, has filled us in on Becket''s approach to climbing.

"Beckett started climbing with me when I transitioned to climbing from gymnastics. For a couple of years, it was nothing more than a hobby. When he was 9, however, he had a season where he made Divionals and Nationals for the first time, both in the same season. That was maybe the first time that really got him interested in trying to get better. The following year, he had a better season making finals at Nationals, which is when he realized that he had really improved.

That got him very excited to continue training harder, which really kicked off when I started training a small group of a few focused athletes during Covid, including him. Then, shortly following, I started to take him climbing outside. He learned to lead climb and a couple of weeks later, I took Beckett to Rifle Mountain Park, where he did his first 5.12s. Then, last spring, I think he really started to see the fruits of his training pay off when he did his first 7C+ boulder and then started coming on alpine trips with me week to week. He realized his strength when he started to climb hard boulders, which only fueled his motivation to train even harder.

The last year I really saw that passion for trying hard push him. He's told me that his goal is to really find what his limit is, and push that. He's very hard on himself when he doesn't think he's doing enough though. As his coach, I want to help him achieve his goals. But, especially as his older brother, I also want him to be able to love the sport as long as possible. So helping him keep his expectations in check is important. I write training for him. He trains on his own, and he trains hard. He also takes every opportunity to get outside he can get. Our dad has been a great support in this, giving up many weekends to take him to whatever his latest project is. I've been really grateful to climb with Beckett so much in the last year and look forward to all the years of going out with him and our younger brother, Asher, to come."


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