6 March 2021
Be creative - don't just follow a protocol
Some 20 years ago, there existed very few fixed boulders in the gyms. Instead, everyone had to be creative putting up new boulders on the spray walls. In the same way, beta videos of routes and boulders were rare, meaning that climbers were constantly challenged finding the sequences.
When it comes to training, very few protocols existed and most of the best were just climbing and possibly experimenting with training. Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra became the best climbers in the world without having had a coach or a fixed training program.
Today, a whole industry of online training has emerged, providing shortcuts to advancement in grades. This is, of course, a good thing, but at the same time such structured approaches might reduce climbers' creativity and you can get injured. Furthermore, following a protocol with the only purpose of getting stronger as quickly as possible might make you lose your climbing lifestyle perspective. It might also be that you will lack technical and tactical skills in comparison to your physical strength.
A balanced approach of following structured advices as well as maintaining and developing the creativity is preferred, especially for the kids.
When it comes to training, very few protocols existed and most of the best were just climbing and possibly experimenting with training. Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra became the best climbers in the world without having had a coach or a fixed training program.
Today, a whole industry of online training has emerged, providing shortcuts to advancement in grades. This is, of course, a good thing, but at the same time such structured approaches might reduce climbers' creativity and you can get injured. Furthermore, following a protocol with the only purpose of getting stronger as quickly as possible might make you lose your climbing lifestyle perspective. It might also be that you will lack technical and tactical skills in comparison to your physical strength.
A balanced approach of following structured advices as well as maintaining and developing the creativity is preferred, especially for the kids.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
16 March 2026
Ondra flashes 3*8C in two weeks
โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
26 January 2026
Sean Bailey FAโs Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โฆ


