10 August 2023
Baise Moi (8c+) FA flash by Seb Bouin
Sebastien Bouin is back in France after a 2.5 weeks trip to Flatanger where he worked on Project Big and Silence. Taking good use of all steep endurance training lately, he managed to make a flash of Baise Moi (8c+) in Saint-Auban, at the same time he did the FA. (c) Clarisse Bompard
โMy hardest flash ever! Coming back from Norway, the plan was to spend a month in France between Verdon Gorges and the Alps, climbing some new routes and bolting future projects. The first stop was a relatively new crag "Saint Auban", around the Verdon Gorges which has been bolted by local climbers Franรงois Chollet and Adrien Boulon. The first day I was climbing with Franรงois Chollet (AKA "Wawa"). I warmed up on "Le vent l'emportera" 8a, which I onsighted. Then I managed to climb "Trรฉsor" 8b flash, to finish the warm-up. Franรงois told me he needed 45 minutes to rest. So, I was psyched to check out a project called "Baise moi", thought to be 8c+/9a.
He told me I should wait for Adrien Boulon (the bolter of the route, who is also trying it) to get the beta and give it a flash attempt. But I didnโt think this would be possible. The route is impressive and imposing (45 meters through a big overhang). I was tired from our Norway travel. I said I will just check the moves and hope for a good second go. Then Adrien arrived when I was ready to go. He was psyched for a flash. I thought โWhy not?โ, even if I was doubtful, I had nothing to lose. Then, crux by crux, I understood that the route could be possible, it was 100% my climbing style. Big moves, bad rests between the cruxes. A pure endurance route. I didnโt make any mistakes and I took the risks at the right moments. It's rare to have this kind of opportunity. I am not used to climb onsight or flash in this level. I have not so many routes left in this level to practice.โ
โMy hardest flash ever! Coming back from Norway, the plan was to spend a month in France between Verdon Gorges and the Alps, climbing some new routes and bolting future projects. The first stop was a relatively new crag "Saint Auban", around the Verdon Gorges which has been bolted by local climbers Franรงois Chollet and Adrien Boulon. The first day I was climbing with Franรงois Chollet (AKA "Wawa"). I warmed up on "Le vent l'emportera" 8a, which I onsighted. Then I managed to climb "Trรฉsor" 8b flash, to finish the warm-up. Franรงois told me he needed 45 minutes to rest. So, I was psyched to check out a project called "Baise moi", thought to be 8c+/9a.
He told me I should wait for Adrien Boulon (the bolter of the route, who is also trying it) to get the beta and give it a flash attempt. But I didnโt think this would be possible. The route is impressive and imposing (45 meters through a big overhang). I was tired from our Norway travel. I said I will just check the moves and hope for a good second go. Then Adrien arrived when I was ready to go. He was psyched for a flash. I thought โWhy not?โ, even if I was doubtful, I had nothing to lose. Then, crux by crux, I understood that the route could be possible, it was 100% my climbing style. Big moves, bad rests between the cruxes. A pure endurance route. I didnโt make any mistakes and I took the risks at the right moments. It's rare to have this kind of opportunity. I am not used to climb onsight or flash in this level. I have not so many routes left in this level to practice.โ
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