Aubade direct 9a+ by Anatole Bosio

Monday, 19 October

Anatole Bosio has done the third ascent of Aubade direct 9a+ in Sainte-Victoire. Last summer he did the second ascent of Gerome Pouvreau's Aubade from 2005 suggesting an upgrade to 9a and since then he has tried the 9a+ off and on.

“Aubade direct” is a 9 meters 7c+ into a kneebar rest followed by 6 insane moves very powerful, with long moves on tiny crimps. The hardest move is quite awkward, you need to dyno from a slopy undercling to a little crack." Fanatic Climbing has the full interview. Here is the video. © Martin Baudry

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A

RELATED NEWS

NUMBERS

Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.

NUMBERS

Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…

EDITORIAL

Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …