19 October 2020
Aubade direct 9a+ by Anatole Bosio
Anatole Bosio has done the third ascent of Aubade direct 9a+ in Sainte-Victoire. Last summer he did the second ascent of Gerome Pouvreau's Aubade from 2005 suggesting an upgrade to 9a and since then he has tried the 9a+ off and on.
โAubade directโ is a 9 meters 7c+ into a kneebar rest followed by 6 insane moves very powerful, with long moves on tiny crimps. The hardest move is quite awkward, you need to dyno from a slopy undercling to a little crack." Fanatic Climbing has the full interview. Here is the video. ยฉ Martin Baudry
โAubade directโ is a 9 meters 7c+ into a kneebar rest followed by 6 insane moves very powerful, with long moves on tiny crimps. The hardest move is quite awkward, you need to dyno from a slopy undercling to a little crack." Fanatic Climbing has the full interview. Here is the video. ยฉ Martin Baudry
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโs already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโs adโฆ
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โI stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโs World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders.
Outdoor bouldering isโฆ
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