11 April 2016

Ask the 8a coach #3: How to be less scared?

I am afraid of falling and it often has a negative impact on my climbing. I have read some articles and fought with it for ten years and it does not get better. What can I do? There are some ways to get less afraid of falling but you have to "train" hard to trick your head and you will always have to work on it unless you are a junior or a new-comer, who can possibly be cured once and for all. Training in order to get less scared means in practice that you should step out of your comfort zone, but just barely, as often you can. Start every session with warming up also mentally by talking falls on top rope or and then steadily progress to take also lead falls. Make this a comfortable routine but do not push yourself. If you include this in your warming up to let go several times you will be less scared. The key is to do it minimal step by minimal step and do not overdo it. In practice this could mean that you start to let go on top rope when you are two meters off the ground but to do it 20 - 100 times during every climbing session. Good luck... I am in the same boat :)
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