Ask the 8a coach #2: How to peak in three weeks?

I am going to Kalymnos in three weeks and I want to be in my best shape ever and to onsight my first 7b+. How should I train, having trained hard for the whole winter Onsighting 7b+ in Kalymnos means you will most probably go for a semi-endurance challenge. Most important is actually to avoid being super pumped during the last three weeks. You can still train hard but not do more than about 20 moves in a row. Try to climb on holds similar to the style of Kalymnos, meaning pockets, knee drops, pinches etc. Try to learn to adopt to this style and also to find good rest positions. From a more strategic perspective, check the 8a database and find a dozen 7b+'s with a high onsight percentage. Once you start challenging your onsight, climb fast and take some risk. It is better to fall off early than to struggle for 30 minutes and fall at the top. Once you have been super pumped a couple of times you will loose your peak unless you take rest days. It just might be that you do not onsight your 7b+ until you try your tenth but that demands that you climb fast without getting super pumped. Good luck with Tufa King Pumped :), which is on the picture by Spyros Apostolopoulos.