Vertical-Life
Another onsight trip for Silvio Reffo
"When I have some days to climb in a new crag I love climb onsight, because around my home I climbed more or less all the routes that I can try with this style. I think that the secret to climbing well onsight, is to climb onsight often😂😂😂. Every onsight trip I start to climb with “easy” routes for two days to be confident with the style of climbing. After that, I try to send hard routes. Top climbers often try only extreme routes and skip the other routes in mid-range. I like to try extreme routes only if I have a two weeks trip."
What is newsworthy is that the male top onsight level has not increased during the last 15 years or so, if we exclude Adam Ondra. Surely, Covid-19 has limited the possibilities of travelling for the last two years but even so it is anyhow only Adam Ondra who has until last year, for some years in a row, done several 8b+ onsights. At the same time, we have seen extreme progress when it comes to the redpoint level. Currently, Martina Demmel is the 8a onsight ranking leader, ahead of all males and she has only been climbing for four years. The only climber having onsighted two 8c's in 2021 was Janja Garnbret.
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Silvio Reffo opens Lullaby (9a)
Silvio Reffo, who has 18 routes 9a to 9a+ under his belt, has done the FA of Lullaby (9a) in Covolo. ”Lullaby is the easy variant of a project of mine. In the …
Super Pit (9a) FA'ed by Silvio Reffo
Silvio Reffo, who has already ticked 16 routes 9a and harder, has made the FA of Super Pit (9a) in Covolo. "I bolted this route last autumn, but with the arri…
The Italian youngsters are coming strong
Core, Lavarda, Moroni, Caminati, Lavarda, Calibani, Crespi and Manolo are examples of world class climbers from Italy. From a global perspective overall, Italy …
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Will Bosi repeats Return of the Sleepwalker (9A)
William Bosi has made the second ascent of Daniel Woods’ Return of the Sleepwalker (9A) in Black Velvet Canyon, after projecting it for 12 sessions. This was th…