Another onsight trip for Silvio Reffo

Thursday, 13 January

Silvio Reffo has been on a short family climbing trip to Rome where he onsighted six routes 8a to 8b+. Previously he has onsighted more than 70 8a+ and harder. In the annual 8a onsight ranking game, the Italian is tied #2.

"When I have some days to climb in a new crag I love climb onsight, because around my home I climbed more or less all the routes that I can try with this style. I think that the secret to climbing well onsight, is to climb onsight often😂😂😂. Every onsight trip I start to climb with “easy” routes for two days to be confident with the style of climbing. After that, I try to send hard routes. Top climbers often try only extreme routes and skip the other routes in mid-range. I like to try extreme routes only if I have a two weeks trip."

What is newsworthy is that the male top onsight level has not increased during the last 15 years or so, if we exclude Adam Ondra. Surely, Covid-19 has limited the possibilities of travelling for the last two years but even so it is anyhow only Adam Ondra who has until last year, for some years in a row, done several 8b+ onsights. At the same time, we have seen extreme progress when it comes to the redpoint level. Currently, Martina Demmel is the 8a onsight ranking leader, ahead of all males and she has only been climbing for four years. The only climber having onsighted two 8c's in 2021 was Janja Garnbret.

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