28 December 2024

Ann Tiempetpisal ticks Lethal Design (8A+)

Ann Tiempetpisal has done Lethal Design (8A+) in Gateway Canyon. โ€Iโ€™ve heard this called anything between 7C and 8A+. Itโ€™s the first climb Iโ€™ve done harder than 7C so I have no basis for weighing in on grades and decided it doesnโ€™t really matter to me. Itโ€™s morphological neutral and seems to be the same difficulty no matter the beta; my 5โ€™2โ€ spike crimp beta, the 6โ€™4โ€ person pulling straight up through the underclings, or the 8 year old grabbing invisible holds - thatโ€™s pretty neat. This process was an uncommon experience for me and I had a lot of fun. Thanks, everyone :)โ€

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
I first tried the climb 2 years ago when my friend encouraged me to work it with him; he sent it shortly afterward and I came back last season to work it myself. It was a bit challenging to project a climb 1800 miles away; I flew out for long weekends, was rained out 3 trips in a row, I got sick for 6 months. It was feelings like I wasnโ€™t supposed to climb this boulder, that I didnโ€™t deserve to because I wasnโ€™t properly respecting climbing since I hadnโ€™t sent the grades below it.

I moved to the area but didnโ€™t go back until a month ago when I went to support another friend. I was able to match my high point and resumed working the boulder however, I didnโ€™t rest properly, overworked myself, and became very mentally negative. My partner told me I seemed stronger but looked as if I no longer believed I could send. I decided I needed to either get my head back in the right place or stop trying the boulder. I wasnโ€™t ready to give up so I decided to tell myself every day that โ€œtoday is the dayโ€ until I sent. Coincidentally, the first day I did, it was!
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