16 July 2013

Angy Eiter makes the FFA of 'Zeris', 8c

Last week, Angela Eiter did the first female ascent of Zeris, 8c in Götterwandl (Imst - Austria). Pic(c) Bernhard Ruech. We addressed the Austrian for her to tell us a bit of how the process of sending this route was, how long and how much effort she put in it, a little description of the route and whether she's planning to compete this year. "As far as competition climbing is concerned, this year I just focus on the World Games in Columbia on 3rd August. Besides training for this event I want to increase my performances on rock climbing. That was why I aimed to complete some hard routes in the climbing crag Götterwandl nearby my homeplace Imst. One of them was the route 'Zeris', 8c, a combination of the hardest part of 'Zeus, 8b+' and the boulder-like route 'Osiris', 8a+. The special thing of this route is the crack at the beginning. It is important to know where you have to place your hands in the crack. The best is to find the positions immediately and save energy for the upcoming powerful moves on very crimpy holds. After some softer movements a hard sequence associated with the crux at the end followed. The crux is a very big move, where I became a regular victim. However, I had to take a break of two weeks, because of an injury on my elbow. Step by step I recovered and my power improved again. Therefore, I wanted to try my project. The first moves went well, but I nearly fell in the crag and almost once again on the wet grimpy holds. Pumped, but motivated I reached the crux. I focused my mind, placed my feet and jumped into the good hold and catched it :-)! After two further hard moves I could clipped the anchor finally - YIPPIE :-)! Sometimes you have to put much effort in your project and there is just a short moment of success in return! However, it is always worth doing it :-)!"
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