Amity Warme sending Real Ultimate Power 8b (+)

Amity Warme has repeated Joel Unema’s five pitches Real Ultimate Power P1 (8b+) in Flagstaff Hinterlands. “Full in a day ascent of the whole route. I came straight off of doing Dickel's, Cult Leader, and Cousin of Death and this one is most certainly a step up from all of those so definitely warrants a 14a rating in my book as compared to those three. Mantled the rim of the canyon at the top and enjoyed a few minutes feeling thankful for the experience.”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and the process behind?
In the sandstone canyons outside of Sedona, AZ, there are a series of 5 star multipitch routes - all 5 or 6 pitches. Two of them go at 5.13d (Cousin of Death, Cult Leader), one at 13c (Dickel’s Delight) and Real Ultimate Power at 14a. They were all established by local crusher Joel Unema with help from Blake McCord. These routes are sort of ‘off the beaten path.’ Each of the 13s has only received a couple of repeats and no one had made a complete in a day ascent of RUP (although Joel had sent all the pitches and easily could have sent the full route if circumstances had provided the opportunity). I started working with Joel as my climbing coach at the beginning of 2024 and he had told me about these amazing routes. This past fall, I made it my goal to climb each of these routes in a day, including the first full ascent of RUP. After completing all the 5.13s, I turned my attention to RUP. I spent a total of 6 days TR soloing the crux pitches and then another 6 days giving lead burns.

I sent the crux pitch a couple of times but a broken hold on the 5.13 pitch and a couple of other tactical errors prevented me from sending the whole route until finally on my 12th day on the route, it all came together in a magical no falls day supported by my good friend and climbing partner, Brent Barghahn.

All of these routes, dubbed the ‘Vortex Quadrilogy’ provide incredible climbing, unique features, an unforgettable landscape, and deserve more attention!