21 June 2020
Ambition 8C FA by James Squire
James Squire has done his second 8C FA at the Biblins Cave, Ambition, Video. The pic is from his first 8C FA and was taken by Mark Davies.
Would it be possible to add some bolts on top and get a 9a+ or so route? Biblins Cave is in a protected area so you are not allowed to use bolts. If you want to climb higher, the only solution is to bring more pads!
"Ambition is a project I have had for a couple of years. I did all of the moves last season but ran out of time to finish it as Biblins Cave is only open from May-September. The Coronavirus lock-down has forced all climbing walls in the UK to temporarily close so I had to get creative and built a home woody. This was great for short boulder problems but made it hard to train stamina. Luckily outdoor climbing was recently allowed again in England so twice a week my friends and I would climb at Biblins. This boulder breaks down as a 8B+ into a 7C/+ with the redpoint crux being the very last few moves. A few holds at the start also seep after heavy rain making it a frustrating process of finding a day where you feel strong and also having the rock in good condition. I had about 8 sessions last year and 7 sessions this year before finally being able to complete this mega project. Very happy!"
Would it be possible to add some bolts on top and get a 9a+ or so route? Biblins Cave is in a protected area so you are not allowed to use bolts. If you want to climb higher, the only solution is to bring more pads!
"Ambition is a project I have had for a couple of years. I did all of the moves last season but ran out of time to finish it as Biblins Cave is only open from May-September. The Coronavirus lock-down has forced all climbing walls in the UK to temporarily close so I had to get creative and built a home woody. This was great for short boulder problems but made it hard to train stamina. Luckily outdoor climbing was recently allowed again in England so twice a week my friends and I would climb at Biblins. This boulder breaks down as a 8B+ into a 7C/+ with the redpoint crux being the very last few moves. A few holds at the start also seep after heavy rain making it a frustrating process of finding a day where you feel strong and also having the rock in good condition. I had about 8 sessions last year and 7 sessions this year before finally being able to complete this mega project. Very happy!"
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