23 February 2019
Always a grey (ethical) area
Based on Matt Fultz thoughts in regards flashes and grades, it might be interesting checking the 8a Practice & Ethics presented in a traffic light system; Green - Yellow - Red.
Once I onsighted a route in Kalymnos. Hours after I proudly recorded it in my scorecard Aris T, sent me a smiling message that he had belayed me on my first onsight of the same route like 10 years ago. Kind of fun and I had to change it to second go.
At the same time it is quite normal also by top climbers to start an onsight and then down climb to the ground and save the onsight. Further more, belaying friends several times and then go for an onsight has been done on what some consider the first 8c onsight.
The 8a take is that when it comes to world class ascents, we have to apply the ethics more strict but at the same time if Matt Fultz had no recollection of trying the moves, so he had no advantages from what he did 13 years ago, he could possibly have called them flashes.
The bottom line is that we have to accept that there is a grey area, even if it is much thinner for "world records". If your mother lifts you up being 8 or even 12 years old feeling the first holds on Action Directe, you can of course try to flash it ten years later. The same onsight ethics goes for asking your friend to pre-clip two quickdraws for safety reasons, even down climb once below the first quickdraw or even belay your friend once. It is up to you to make the final ethical "grey" call based on the current community accepted ethics.
Please share your opinions :) Can you onsight or flash a climb twice?
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