21 October 2022

All Japan podium at Morioka Combined WC

1. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 84.3 + 72.1 = 156.4
2. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 54.4 + 84.0 = 138.4
3. Kokoro Fujii JPN 68.6 + 64= 132.6
Complete results

Tomoa Narasaki won the very first Boulder and Lead World Cup, getting 18 points more than Yoshiyuki Ogata also from Japan. Placing third was Kokoro Fujii and in total the Japanese team had five at the Top-7. All in all, the route setting and new calculation played out well for Paul Jenft winning the Boulder round with 84.7 points and Ogata winning Lead with 84.0 points.

โ€œItโ€™s been definitely a tough round, but Iโ€™m glad I have won the first-ever World Cup medal in this format,โ€ said Narasaki to IFSC. โ€œTo be honest, this morning I didnโ€™t really feel like having two rounds on the same day, but I kept my focus and gave my best.โ€ (c) Lena Drapella

In practice, this means that Ogata was four moves from the top and that Jenft needed seven attempts to make 3 Tops and 4 High Zones. It should be noted that a new point system was tested and the only difference with the old system, used in the Euro Championship, would have been that Yannick Flohรฉ would have taken Jeft's #4 position.
0 comments
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
Favorites
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
โ€I stopped focusing on competition bouldering after last yearโ€™s World Cup in Prague, partly because I can already feel it on my body, especially in my shoulders. The modern competition style, with a lot of jumping from one hold to another, is very demanding for the shoulders. Outdoor bouldering isโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ