Algorithm 9a by Palmer Larsen

Saturday, 24 October

Palmer Larsen skips 8c+ and does his first 9a, Algorithm in The Fins. He projected it for some 15 days doing just some 30 tries as each try took some 45 minutes.

"Solving an algorithm is exactly what I felt like I was doing in order to send that route. It’s 40m long with a boulder crux at about half way and then two boulder cruxes right at the top. Each effort would be about 45 min so it took a lot each time I pulled on. I put about 15 days of work into the route and over 30 tries over the course of the past few months and sent it on probably the last day of the season before it gets too cold.

Perfect beta, temps, skin, mental toughness and desire, and just a bit of luck for it to all come together. Cheer to Johnathan for finding and getting the FA of the line. It felt impossible at first to me so I couldn’t imagine what he had to go through."

0  C O M M E N T S:
Sort by: Date D Reply A



Tuesday, 19 January

Add crags to the database

We can now manually add new crags to the data base. Just make a comment and the data base will be improved and you can automatically create Tick Lists and add crag info etc.


Monday, 12 October

Systematic Devaluing ethics

Debate/Jens: In trad climbing you are not allowed to have the gear or quickdraws in place and it was also like this in the beginning of the sport climbing era. Some ten years ago, you still had to place the draws if you were going to claim an onsight. The devaluation of ethics have continued and now…


Wednesday, 18 May

No correlation between semi and final results for Top-4 in Boulder WCs

During the Bouldering World Championship in 2007, Daniel Dulac won the semifinal by flashing all four problems but in the final he did not do a single Boulder even if each of the other five finalists did three problems on average. Daniel said that it was extremely frustrating to hear the spectators …