Alexander Watt, 17, FA’s Purgatory (9a)

Alexander Watt has done the first ascent of Purgatory (9a) in Hell Cave. ”The OG Jared Roth line [bolted 25 years ago] in the center of the cave climbing out the green draws. Part of the line was done starting on Cannibals direct (8c) by Dalton Bunker in 2018 though the original line remained a project despite being attempted by many a local legend for over 20 years. Has a consistent boulder down low and culminates in the same steep crux as In Hell I'll be in Good Company (8c+). This was the first climb Jared ever bolted. Took me around 3 years and 40+ days. Roughly 200-250 hours in the cave.” (c) Jeremiah Watt

Can you tell us more about your process behind the ascent?
Purgatory is one of the most direct lines in the Hell Cave and was bolted as a project over 25 years ago by Jared Roth. It ended up becoming an equally frustrating and rewarding process. I had several foot slips, was forced to train for the first time ever, had five consecutive falls on the final crux move, numbed out on the outro, consistently struggled with poor conditions, and once fell matching the finish hold, basically every method of punting known to climbing.

On my last session of the year, with rain in the forecast, I knew I wouldn’t get another chance and ended up just trying really damn hard. I hit the desired flow state and ended up having to try hard all the way through the final crux which was cool. Once it was over, I realized how much the climb had forced me to progress, and how cool it was to see the increase in strength from the very beginning of highschool through my senior year when I finally sent. It was cool to add something of my own to such a historic area and was made all the better by having my dad and biggest supporter on the belay.

What is your climbing background?
I am 17 and have been climbing for my whole life. Both of my parents climb and had climbed for a while before they , so I grew up at climbing outside, funny enough taking my first steps at the climbing gym. I’ve always climbed outside, and began comp climbing at 7, but was always casual in my relationship with the sport. After a new coach joined my team when I was 13 and really helped me, I became significantly more invested and started trying hard, after that I went to youth nationals and made finals the next three years, building a great base for outdoors. As a senior in the IB program I’ve decided not to compete this final year, and instead to just climb outside, which was largely aided by the enjoyment of the process I had on Purgatory.