
Alex Ventajas ticks Omen Nomen (9a)
Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
I have already tried the route on two occasions. The first time was around three years ago, and I remember it felt really hard! It was spring and since the wall gets a lot of sun, the tiny holds, and slippery feet combined with hot temperatures discouraged me from trying it again. The second time was the past autumn, even if I already had another project in mind, I randomly went back to Padaro and found Simon Raffeiner trying Omen Nomen. I decided to share some tries with him and thanks to his betas I managed to do all the moves.
Even if the route caught my attention, I didn’t come back since last week. That day I had no expectations, I just wanted to revise the sequences! After warming up on the route, I gave it a second try and unexpectedly found myself falling on the last hard move before the chain!
This Monday, after five intense route-setting work days for a boulder competition and a few skins left on my fingers, I came back to Padaro! Everything flowed perfectly, letting me send the route on the first go of the day! It’s kind of strange because I have never thought about Omen Nomen as a real “project”, the send just happened!
It’s funny to see how our perception might change over the years! The first time I couldn’t fully appreciate the line but, on the contrary, the past days I found it five-star, varied and spicy, and enjoyed every move!
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