
2 March 2016
Alex Puccio searches inspiring challenges - Not grades others have given
Alex Puccio, the best female boulderer on rock and in comps, who frequently uses personal grades, comes clean writing an official letter to the media saying she is in it for the inspiring challenges - Not for grades others have given.
"Dear publicity and Media, something that really bothers me. I'm pretty frustrated with what it takes to be at the top level of your sport. I feel like I'm a pretty honest climber and person and I will never be ok with taking a higher grade for a climb just to get more recognition and publicity just to be more "famous" in our sport.
People will always have their opinions and the sad thing is that when climbers take the inflated grade just to "look cooler" they might get crap from other professional climbers or climbers that are immersed in the sport, but to the majority that doesn't know any better they look "bad a**"!
Sure I could have said I've done another V14 or more V13's and even flashed a V12, but that's not me and I wouldn't have been honest to myself and to the media. I will never be one of those climbers to do that just to get ahead!
And actually some of the climbs that have been the toughest for me have not been V14 or even V13. There are quiet a few V12's that I have done that were physically and mentally the hardest for me because of the massive moves and sloppy holds. I like to seek out the "non girly" or "non shortie" climbs because I like a challenge! I don't want to be defined by my gender and height and no one will tell me what I can and can't do! And I won't just go seek out a climb with a big number attached to it just because it's my style and it would be easier for me.
A climb has to inspire me for me to want to try my hardest on it and have fun working it, otherwise it's meaningless. I will always keep pushing myself, but honestly!!! I also want to add that I'm very thankful for my sponsors that have supported what I value as an athlete, person and climber!
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