2 March 2016

Alex Puccio searches inspiring challenges - Not grades others have given

Alex Puccio, the best female boulderer on rock and in comps, who frequently uses personal grades, comes clean writing an official letter to the media saying she is in it for the inspiring challenges - Not for grades others have given. "Dear publicity and Media, something that really bothers me. I'm pretty frustrated with what it takes to be at the top level of your sport. I feel like I'm a pretty honest climber and person and I will never be ok with taking a higher grade for a climb just to get more recognition and publicity just to be more "famous" in our sport. People will always have their opinions and the sad thing is that when climbers take the inflated grade just to "look cooler" they might get crap from other professional climbers or climbers that are immersed in the sport, but to the majority that doesn't know any better they look "bad a**"! Sure I could have said I've done another V14 or more V13's and even flashed a V12, but that's not me and I wouldn't have been honest to myself and to the media. I will never be one of those climbers to do that just to get ahead! And actually some of the climbs that have been the toughest for me have not been V14 or even V13. There are quiet a few V12's that I have done that were physically and mentally the hardest for me because of the massive moves and sloppy holds. I like to seek out the "non girly" or "non shortie" climbs because I like a challenge! I don't want to be defined by my gender and height and no one will tell me what I can and can't do! And I won't just go seek out a climb with a big number attached to it just because it's my style and it would be easier for me. A climb has to inspire me for me to want to try my hardest on it and have fun working it, otherwise it's meaningless. I will always keep pushing myself, but honestly!!! I also want to add that I'm very thankful for my sponsors that have supported what I value as an athlete, person and climber!
11 comments
Sort by:
Date
Reply
Most commented
Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
18 March 2026

Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions

Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
81
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
26 January 2026

Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)

Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
69
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
23 March 2026

Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia

Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
63
Related
17 February 2008

USA Bouldering Nationals

1. Paul Robinson - Alex Puccio 2. Chris Sharma - Alexandra Johnson 3. Sean McColl - Paige Claasen Out ot the first 15 men, 14 are 8a members!
7
19 February 2008

Results of Feb 15-17 ABS Nationals at The Spot in Boulder, CO

Alex Puccio was the only woman to flash all 4 qualifying problems putting her in 1st place going into finals. She and Alexandra Johnson had a close finish in finals with Alexandra flashing 3 of the 4 finals problems but with Alex Puccio keeping a slight point lead and taking top spot. Women 1. Aleโ€ฆ
0
11 August 2008

Mammut Bouldering Championships SLC - FINAL RESULTS

The forces of nature added an exciting dimension to this year's Mammut Bouldering Championships with rain threatening throughout the event. Repeating his dramatic performance from 2007, Chris Sharma rallied from 9th place to take home the 1st place cash prize, and Alex Puccio edged out Alex Johnson โ€ฆ
1