Alex Megos Olympic preparation interview

Alex Megos was one of the best youth competitors until 2012. Then he started focusing on rock getting outstanding results including the first ever 9a onsight in 2013. In 2017, he was back at the comp scene and almost immediately finished #2 in the Boulder Euro Champs as well as in a Lead WC. The saga continued, and in 2019 he qualified for the Olympics and claimed the silver in the Lead World Champs. Last year he did the FA of Bibliographie 9c and was voted the 8a Climber of the year.

What are your training and competition plans prior to Tokyo?
You can follow all my training on my board account on Instagram. 😅😂 that's pretty much it 🤷🏼‍♂️. I think on average I spend about 15h only on boards every week divided into five sessions. I do a lot of yoga and some exercises too. I also do some climbing on commercial boulders too from time to time. I did do a comp simulation with the German team last weekend. That was the first time since the CWIF in March 2020. I haven't done speed for almost one year now and let's see how many comps will actually happen 🤷🏼‍♂️.

Do you currently follow any program prescribed by your trainers, or do you just climb whatever motivates you? Who do you normally train with?
Mostly climb what motivates me. No plan yet when lead and speed will be picked up again. I'll see how it goes in the next few months 😊. Climbing mostly with Jenya (Kazbekova) and also some friends from time to time.

Who do you think have the greatest chances of getting a medal in Tokyo?
I don't want to make any predictions about the male Olympic medalists. Anybody could win one 🤷🏼‍♂️.