18 December 2021

Alex Honnold is the one giving most personal grades

It is probably a well-known fact that Adam Ondra is the one among the top climbers suggesting most personal grades, including also some upgrades. As an example, Adam made the first 9a onsight which he thought was 8c+ and if he had not suggested so many personal downgrades, he would have done well over 200 routes 9a and harder instead of the 194 he has logged.

However, if we include everyone who regularly sends 8c+, Alex Honnold is the #1 when it comes to personal grades. In November he did his second 9a, The Eggporkalypse, calling it 8c+ and possibly for around 20 % of his hardest routes he has suggested a personal grade, including many also in Kalymnos.

From a historic perspective, we can see that grade inflation is a dilemma for the media as the difficulty of many of the reported ascents were not correct. If it had not been for guys like Adam Ondra and Alex Honnold etc giving their honest opinions, the grade inflation had been much stronger. My personal recommendation is that whenever you are in grade doubt of a FA, go for the lower grade. The hardcore climbers known for giving the hardest FA grades are Alex Huber and Ramon Julian Puigblanque.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo FAโ€™s Cafรฉ Colombia (?) after 240 sessions
Jorge Diaz-Rullo reports on Instagram that he has made the first ascent of Cafe Colombia in Margalef. At 27, heโ€™s already stacked four 9b+ sends and now heโ€™s adโ€ฆ
Sean Bailey FAโ€™s Duality of Man (9c)
Sean Bailey reports on Instagram that he has done the first ascent of Duality of Man (9c) in Dry Canyon. โ€ After four total years and three seasons of climbing,โ€ฆ
Jorge Diaz-Rullo proposes 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia
Jorge Diaz-Rullo elaborates on the reasons for him to suggest 9c for Cafรฉ Colombia on Instagram, which he took down last week after projecting it for 240 sessioโ€ฆ
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Jamie Emerson is currently in Switzerland where he and his friends are steadily sending hard and classic problems. In visiting Cresciano he ran into Adam Ondra making quick work of Dreamtime, 8B+. A video of Adam on the problem can be found on Jamie's website where you can also find high quality phโ€ฆ
Adam Ondra has done two 8c+'s in Frankenjura, Planets Collide and Matador which Markus Bock put up in 2007 and suggested 9a for. Adam says, "in my opinion more 8c+ than 9a, but others should feel free to say more about grade". He also did Showdown, 8c "Stiff grading from nineties, I was very lucky".โ€ฆ
1. 89: Fabrice landry FRA - Matilde Brumagne BEL 1. 91: Mario Lechner AUT - Dinara Fakhritdinova RUS 1. 93: Adam Ondra CZE - Berit Schwaiger AUT Overall, the Austrians dominated as always and in the youngest female category, 4 out of the Top-7 were Austrian girls born -94!