7 May 2020
Ale Zeni - The slab king
Ale Zeni, who last year put up the world's first 9a+ slab, comments his passion for slabs, his 9b FA Cryptography from January, and his big MP project. He woks in the military section of high mountains.
"I love climbing on the slabs for some reason. The first one is because near my house in Primiero (Dolomites) there are just slabs and I grow up with the Manolo's routes. Also because I love the feeling of my body when I search the perfect balance, and I love looking for the really small crimps on the walls that in the beginning seems like a mirror.
For Cryptography I made on my wall the crux of the route (replicas). Where I try it with the wight west to improve my finger power. I don't know exactly how many attempts I did. But approximately something like 40 attempts, during 14 trips, I including the attempts on Bain the Sang and Bimba Luna.
The mp project is in Val Nuvola a beautiful 250 mt wall. Riccardo Scarian and I started bolting this new route from the ground with long runouts some years ago. We have already completed the first 4 pitches that could be: 7c+, 8b (8a obligatory); 7c, and the last one 8c. Then there are more 3 pitches that could be harder.
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